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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.